Case Studies and Policies for Fire Safety in Africa's Textile Factories and Markets

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Africa's textile and apparel industry is a vital economic driver, supporting millions of jobs and contributing significantly to both local and global fashion markets. As the industry expands, the need for effective safety standards becomes even more critical, particularly in the face of increasing global demand.

Recent fire incidents in Morocco, Egypt, and Chana highlight the ongoing risks that workers face in unsafe environments, underscoring the need for comprehensive regulations and enforcement. These tragedies not only expose the vulnerability of factories but also demonstrate a gap in the legal frameworks aimed at safeguarding lives. This piece examines these incidents and their underlying causes, while proposing policy recommendations aimed at improving safety standards across the industry to prevent future tragedies and position Africa as a global leader in textile and apparel safety.

Obour, Egypt (March 2021): Chemical Hazards and Factory Safety Concerns

In March 2021, a fire at a clothing factory in Obour, Egypt, near Cairo, resulted in at least 20 deaths and 24 injuries. The blaze was triggered by a chemical explosion involving flammable materials, such as solvents and dyes, improperly stored in the basement. The fire spread quickly due to poor ventilation and the accumulation of combustible materials, while inadequate fire safety measures, like emergency exits and suppression systems, contributed to the high toll.

This tragedy highlights the need for stricter hazardous materials regulations, better fire risk management, and stronger enforcement of safety standards in textile production facilities to protect workers and businesses.

Tangier, Morocco (November 2024): Swift Emergency Response Prevents Casualties

In November 2024, a fire broke out at a textile factory in Tangier's Al Majd industrial zone. Due to the swift and effective response of Tangier's Civil Protection services, the fire was quickly contained, and fortunately, no casualties were reported. This incident showcases the critical role of well-trained emergency response teams and emphasises the need for strong fire prevention measures and safety protocols within industrial zones to mitigate risks and protect both workers and facilities. This event serves as a reminder that preparedness and prevention must go hand in hand to avoid potential disasters and ensure the safety of all involved. It also highlights the importance of continuous investment in safety infrastructure and ongoing training to prevent similar incidents in the future.

Accra, Ghana (January 2025): The Kantamanto Market Fire Threatens Thousands of Livelihoods

One of the most significant tragedies in recent years has been the repeated fires at Kantamanto Market in Accra, Ghana—one of the largest secondhand clothing markets in the world. The most recent fire, in January 2025, destroyed nearly two-thirds of the market, impacting around 8,000 traders and disrupting the livelihoods of an estimated 30,000 people. This was not an isolated incident; similar fires in previous years, including a major one in December 2020, have left traders grappling with economic ruin.

The causes of these fires remain uncertain, with suspicions ranging from electrical faults to arson linked to real estate developers seeking to repurpose the land. Regardless of the origins, these repeated incidents highlight systemic issues within informal markets: lack of fire safety measures, inadequate infrastructure, and weak government intervention. Despite being a major economic hub, Kantamanto Market has not received the necessary investment to safeguard its traders and the billions of dollars that pass through it annually.

The Environmental and Social Crisis of Textile Waste

Beyond fires, Africa’s fashion industry faces another pressing issue: the environmental crisis caused by the influx of secondhand clothing. Countries like Ghana, Kenya, and Nigeria import millions of tons of used garments from the West, but much of this clothing is of such poor quality that it ends up in landfills or water bodies. Kantamanto Market alone discards about 40% of the imported secondhand clothing, leading to significant pollution.

This crisis is compounded by the fact that many of these garments contain synthetic fibers, which contribute to plastic pollution when they degrade. Rivers and beaches in Ghana and Kenya have become dumping grounds for fashion waste, worsening environmental degradation and public health risks. The legal framework surrounding textile waste imports remains weak, allowing an unchecked flow of low-quality garments that African countries struggle to manage.

The Global Context and Lessons from Other Tragedies

Africa is not alone in facing tragedies within the fashion industry. Countries in South Asia, such as Bangladesh and Pakistan, have experienced devastating factory collapses and fires. The 2013 Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh, which killed over 1,100 garment workers, sparked global outrage and led to the establishment of the Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety. Similarly, Pakistan’s 2012 Karachi factory fire, which claimed nearly 300 lives, highlighted the dire consequences of poor safety standards.

These incidents triggered international efforts to hold fashion brands accountable for working conditions in their supply chains. While Africa’s fashion industry operates under different conditions—being more centered around informal markets and secondhand trade—the need for safety regulations and policy reforms remains just as critical.

The Path Forward: Policy and Legal Reforms

To prevent future tragedies, African governments must take a more proactive approach in regulating their fashion industries. This includes:

1. Stronger Safety Regulations for Markets and Factories – Governments should mandate fire safety measures, ensure market infrastructures are up to standard, and provide financial support for traders to rebuild safely after disasters.

2. Environmental Laws on Textile Waste – Policies must be put in place to control the influx of low-quality secondhand clothing and encourage sustainable alternatives, such as local textile production.

3. Support for Local Manufacturing – Instead of relying on imported secondhand clothing, African nations should invest in their textile industries, creating jobs while reducing dependency on foreign waste.

4. Corporate Accountability – Global fashion brands sourcing from Africa must be held to higher labor and environmental standards, ensuring ethical and sustainable practices in local supply chains.

The tragedies that have struck Africa’s fashion markets and factories are preventable. Whether through fire safety measures in markets like Kantamanto or stricter regulations on textile waste, governments and industry stakeholders must act urgently. Africa’s fashion industry is a vital economic driver, and with the right policies, it can thrive without putting lives and communities at risk.